If you’re standing in front of this Hajduk Split fan club mural on Split’s Riva, turn 140 degrees to your right and walk about 75 meters. Or, just ask any of the locals how to get to Buffet Fife (boo-fay FEE-fay). While not a buffet in the commonly understood sense, it’s still a great value and a terrific place to eat in Split. Fresh, organic ingredients are prepared simply and traditionally, and the prices can’t be beat. For these reasons and others, Fife is a unanimous favorite with families and senior Dalmatians in Split. The older gentleman below arrived for an early supper a few moments after me. I think he’d just risen from his afternoon nap.

Holy cats, he looks hungry! But what, in the name of all that is holy, is smoothhound, you ask? Don’t call PETA yet, my pet. Smoothhound is just a bit of shark. The Croatian word for shark is morski pas, and it translates literally to sea hound. What with a shark’s sleek appearance, referring to these dogs of the deep as “smooth hounds” is understandable… and adorable! In any case, if you enjoy the firm texture and mild flavor of shark, you shouldn’t be afraid to order smoothhound in Croatia. Additionally, red mullets do not contain hair.

We ordered a small portion of fried squid, mixed pan-fried fish, grilled vegetables and potatoes. Though Fife was doing a brisk business that day, the food arrived swiftly and without a hitch. A soft breeze blew in, rattling the palms lightly and bringing whiffs of the rosemary and lavender planted along the Riva. The incidental music of a busy Dalmatian harbor in late afternoon was all the accompaniment this simple, wholesome repast required.

Unfortunately, Fife was fresh out of walnut palačinke that day, but the chocolate ones surpassed my expectations. Yes, they eat crêpes in Croatia.

Buffet Fife is located at Trumbićeva obala 11 on Riva in Split, Croatia. Dress is ultra-casual, portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and reservations are hardly required. Indoor and outdoor seating is available, and a short list of Croatian wines is more than adequate representation of the region’s viticultural bounty. - John J. Goddard